High Idle

Wondering if anyone has experienced a high idle when the engine is completely warmed up? I have about 5500 miles on my DN and today was riding in about 90 degree temperature. I was about 5 miles from home and stopped at a red light and the engine was revving up to about 1500 rpm, I had to hold the front brake to keep it from lunging forward thru the stop light. I put the bike in neutral but the engine rpm did not change.
I went about 2 miles and pulled over at a convenience store to fuel up, (still had 2 bars left on the gauge), turned the engine off, fueled up and re-started the engine and the idle was perfect at around 900 to 1000 rpm's.
I rode the bike for about 30 miles without any idleing issues.
I have never had this to happen before, VERY STRANGE !!:confused::confused:
 

spamer80

Member
Seen once the same thing on my friend's DN and it go away after changing the fuel. So the bad fuel may be the problem.
 

Yes, this could be the problem, I haven't ridden it much until today and it did have some old fuel in it with some Stabil that I added over the winter.
 

DammmDel

New member
Wondering if anyone has experienced a high idle when the engine is completely warmed up? I have about 5500 miles on my DN and today was riding in about 90 degree temperature. I was about 5 miles from home and stopped at a red light and the engine was revving up to about 1500 rpm, I had to hold the front brake to keep it from lunging forward thru the stop light. I put the bike in neutral but the engine rpm did not change.
I went about 2 miles and pulled over at a convenience store to fuel up, (still had 2 bars left on the gauge), turned the engine off, fueled up and re-started the engine and the idle was perfect at around 900 to 1000 rpm's.
I rode the bike for about 30 miles without any idleing issues.
I have never had this to happen before, VERY STRANGE !!:confused::confused:
i had this happen not long after i got my dino. it turned out to be the sparkplug caps needed changing as they were breaking down. honda used ngk plug caps and ive had no problem since.
this fault was recognised by honda even though they didnt recall it.. hope this helps
 

avion

New member
On page 4-14 in manual idle speed specification calls for 1200rpm +-100rpm. I think this is too high. I feel 1000rpm or thereabouts would be much better. Do you guys agree? I have it sitting at 1200rpm and its just engaging the clutch at those rpms with occasionally bursting to 1300rpm I need to apply brake sometimes to keep it from creeping forward. Not to mention higher temperatures (I feel) and potential clutch wear. What idle do you think should be normal?

Also when I am slowing down in the beginning was a smooth affair with engine braking and eventually clutch disengaging at low speed and then applying brake for a clean stop. Now all I have are burps of engine, virtually no engine braking and have to apply brake for every stop because of high idle. Do you have any suspicion at what may be causing this? Maybe is the IACV valve...

PS: I have 18000km on the clock.
 

avion

New member
Can someone post what sort of idle rpm your Dino is running please, ...keen to find out to see if I am to pull apart IACV valve or look elsewhere...
 

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
Can someone post what sort of idle rpm your Dino is running please, ...keen to find out to see if I am to pull apart IACV valve or look elsewhere...

My Dino "idles' @ 1200 rpm at startup OR at normal running temperature, odometer: 21K miles. I have NEVER had a problem with "surging" or having to EVER use the brake to halt forward movement. Have you giving it any thought about a good fuel cleaner for the injectors, i.e. SeaFoam or such.
 
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avion

New member
Thanks for your reply Gizmo. I have not tried injector cleaners. I have tried different fuels but it's all the same. I will give it a try to what you suggest before I start pulling things apart.
 

avion

New member
Gents, i found the problem. It was loose battery positive terminal. I have inspected the tightness of the battery screws before and they were both tight but i failed to wiggle the cables themselves just to check. While the screw was tight it was hitting at the bottom on the battery itself giving impression it was tight. Once i wiggled the cable i realized it was not tight. Somebody before me either did not put washer or did not use original screw which in this case was too long. I have placed couple washers under and made sure it was tight. It made the world of difference how the bike is running at idle now. What a relief... :)
 


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