Buyers guide / common faults?

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
HI everyone. I'm a brand new owner of DN-01 and also (unfortunately) the owner of new PROBLEM. From time to time I can't start the engine - Key turned on. Ignition registering that bike was in gear, or at least not in neutral, the "-" flashes to indicate a failure (4 slow, 5 faster).
I was lucky finding this forum which gave me some idea where is the problem.
I've found also some helpful info on this website:
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/general-discussion/103765-dn-o1-09-starting-trouble-2.html
Please see the last message.
I have a few questions and I will be grateful if you can help me:
* is there any chance to get Service Manual in pdf as I presume it should contain fault codes so I could read what flashing icon "-" says
* does anyone know what the swash plate angle sensor is responsible for?
* during my travel from UK to Ireland (500 km) I've experienced also a few yanks when reducing speed (55-50 miles/h), this could be from HFT when shifting down, does anyone know what it can be?
Looking forward for any answers and suggestions. Thanks in advance! /Greg

* during my travel from UK to Ireland (500 km) I've experienced also a few yanks when reducing speed (55-50 miles/h), this could be from HFT when shifting down, does anyone know what it can be?

Quite NORMAL when the HFT downshift @ about 50 mph ... one of the quirks of owning a DN-01. They all do it when riding in full auto mode.
 

spamer80

Member
HI everyone. I'm a brand new owner of DN-01 and also (unfortunately) the owner of new PROBLEM. From time to time I can't start the engine - Key turned on. Ignition registering that bike was in gear, or at least not in neutral, the "-" flashes to indicate a failure (4 slow, 5 faster).
I was lucky finding this forum which gave me some idea where is the problem.
I've found also some helpful info on this website:
http://www.fireblades.org/forums/general-discussion/103765-dn-o1-09-starting-trouble-2.html
Please see the last message.
I have a few questions and I will be grateful if you can help me:
* is there any chance to get Service Manual in pdf as I presume it should contain fault codes so I could read what flashing icon "-" says
* does anyone know what the swash plate angle sensor is responsible for?
* during my travel from UK to Ireland (500 km) I've experienced also a few yanks when reducing speed (55-50 miles/h), this could be from HFT when shifting down, does anyone know what it can be?
Looking forward for any answers and suggestions. Thanks in advance! /Greg
Code 45 is neutral oil pressure switch problem. Please refer to section 11 of service manual. I've had the same problem with my bike, I've changed the switch but because currently I have some hardcore sex with my bike, I could not test it still to check if problem still exist. Anyway, this problem sympthoms are:
1) when you turn the key on, there is "-" already blinking with code 45. Long blink = 10, and short = 1. It most often appears when the bike is cold after staying at garage.
2) when you've stopped and trying to switch from "D" to "N".
You can use your ignition switch, turn it off/on until the blinking disappear. It's faster than turn the key on and off.
If it won't disappear, you can turn your key off then hold the starter button and turn the key on. Your bike will start faster than blinking appear and you're free to ride.
But I still can not confirm that after oil pressure switch replacement the problem will disappear, I mentioned above why. Anyway, the original Denso switch part number is 37240-P13-013 it cost about $25 and you can found it on the right crankcase cover. Under the same cover as oil dipstick. And there is tons of cheaper aftermarket analogs in car parts shop.

You can get the service manual here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B7PUdSkoxfSLQTBXSS14TUd0bFE

The swash plate angle sensor is responsible for checking angle of the motor swash plate. Sincerely yours, Captain Obvious. Please look at the picture.

There is the swash plate control motor (the pictures of the faulty one you can find above). It can rotate clockwise and counter and it is the main mechanism of "gear shift" on the DN-01. It rotates the shaft which is tilting the swash plate and the more it tilted, the highest "gear" you're currently running. So to detect the current "gear" you need the angle sensor.

About "bumps" at certain speed - there is known about 85-86 km/h bump at D mode and 115km/h at S mode. It only appears when you're cruising around this speed. If you accelerate or decelerate quicker it will not appear. All DN-01 seems to have this, so this is not a problem seems.
 
Last edited:

DNSarnia

Member
'bump'

About "bumps" at certain speed - there is known about 85-86 km/h bump at D mode and 115km/h at S mode. It only appears when you're cruising around this speed. If you accelerate or decelerate quicker it will not appear. All DN-01 seems to have this, so this is not a problem seems.
It was determined from earlier posts (around 2010) that the bump is the gear slector/ing going from constantly variable to being locked in at the highest (6th gear) setting/ratio, while in automatic mode. In D - it is always about 85km/h and you only feel it if cruising in and around this speed.
 

grzes61

New member
THANKS!!!

Thanks to ALL of you for your great support. It is super to have you :) I've already ordered the angle sensor and hope it will solve the problem... If so - I will post that. If no - will search for help again.
 


Bobbob

New member
I'm wondering if the oil seal (O ring) had failed & allowed moisture to get into the motor? Might be worth replacing the seal occasionally as a preventative measure.
 

foxdie

New member
Just posting a minor update here...

Took the bike for its first ride after winter today and noticed when I pulled the bike out of the garage (I put it in D and rode out) and put the bike back into neutral, the dash flickered briefly a couple of times between D and N...

I put the bike back into D and it engaged fine, when putting it back into N the same thing happened again.

Went for a 20-30 minute ride, got everything nice and hot and it's not doing it anymore but I'll keep an eye on it. I suspect perhaps moisture or poor contact on the neutral switch. God help me if that bloody swashplate motor is about to fail again :LOL:
 

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
Just posting a minor update here...

Took the bike for its first ride after winter today and noticed when I pulled the bike out of the garage (I put it in D and rode out) and put the bike back into neutral, the dash flickered briefly a couple of times between D and N...

I put the bike back into D and it engaged fine, when putting it back into N the same thing happened again.

Went for a 20-30 minute ride, got everything nice and hot and it's not doing it anymore but I'll keep an eye on it. I suspect perhaps moisture or poor contact on the neutral switch. God help me if that bloody swashplate motor is about to fail again :LOL:
Thanks for the info
 

Wesam

New member
Hi folks, back in 2014 I made the following post before buying my Honda NSA700 / DN-01. In the last 2 years of ownership I've learnt a lot about these bikes and this post has made it to the top of search engine, so I'm going to edit this post contents to better reflect ownership.

If fellow owners want to put content here, please reply below.

Buyers Guide and Common Faults

Aside from the usual checks you should perform when buying a used motorcycle, here are some DN-01 specific buyers guide points.

Brakes

As DN-01's have a linked braking system with ABS, with moderate to heavy braking you should hear a mild, high frequency buzzing sound, comparable to the sound of a field of crickets. This is normal.

These motorcycles have a handbrake / parking brake (cool, eh?), this is located by your RIGHT KNEE whilst sat on the bike. It's a latching system, pull it towards you to activate, pull it towards you again to release.

Transmission

The DN-01 transmission, known as the HFT (Human Friendly Transmission) is closer to the torque converter in a traditional automatic gearbox than the CVT system in most scooters. This gearbox converts torque from the engine to the shaft-driven rear wheel by the use of an variable hydraulic piston system where the angle of the "swash" plate controls the gear ratio.

Although the hydraulic system itself is widely regarded as being robust and reliable, it's control systems can suffer from old age. In particular, there are 2 components that can exhibit issues;
  • The swash plate angle sensor is located near the ground behind the reserve water bottle - being so low this sensor is often subject to poor weather and moisture
  • The motor that controls the swash plate angle can suffer from old age and seize up as the magnets disintegrate and stop it from turning
When performing a test ride, make sure the bike is in manual gear mode (the button for this is like a gun trigger, located under your RIGHT HAND index finger when holding the throttle) and work through the gears (1 -> 6) repeatedly. The gearbox should shift quickly (within half a second) and effortlessly. If it's taking a notable time to change gear, the motor is close to failure.

Diagnosing faults

Although it's recommended you take your motorcycle to a professional with the correct diagnostic tools, you can read the DTC / fault codes on the DN-01 with the "paperclip trick".

Remove the passenger seat by inserting the key into the side key slot located underneath your LEFT BUTT CHEEK (fnarr) as you sit on the bike (and it would be recommended you remove the drivers seat, this is held in by 2x 10 mm bolts), you will then see a small red plug just behind the fuel tank.

With the ignition off, remove the red plastic cover and gently insert a paperclip (or a small piece of wire) between the pins for the GREEN (with yellow stripe) and BROWN wires - be careful as there's another BROWN wire with a stripe, make sure to use the BROWN only wire.

When the Green/yellow and Brown wires are shorted, you have 2 choices;
  • Either just turn the ignition on to read only the PGM-FI (engine) fault codes (read from the MIL light)
  • Or hold down the D / Gear + button whilst turning on the ignition to read only the HFT (gearbox) fault codes (read from the gear indicator flashing a horizontal - line)
Codes are flashed out with blocks of ten in long (1~ second) flashes and blocks of 1 in short (under half a second) flashes, for example two long flashes followed by six short flashes would be a fault code of 26.

Once you have finished reading the fault codes, turn the ignition off, remove the paperclip / wire, then re-assemble everything.

My original post:

I'm looking to buy a DN-01 in the coming months and so far I've been unable to find anything that remotely resembles a buyers guide or a list of common faults, both on DN-01.net and Google.

Can any of you lovely folks suggest what I should be looking out for when buying one of these bikes?

Typical questions I have are;

    • How reliable is the human-friendly transmission? Are the pulley belts known to snap for example?
    • Any known mechanical problems such as suspension forks, engine overheating, cutouts?
    • Electrical issues? I've spotted one where the bike sometimes doesn't engage drive and requires an ECU reset (battery disconnect) for example
Thanks in advance!
How I can get the faults codes list
 


Freddy

Active member
Thanks for such good info here folks. I'm looking at a couple of Dino's next week with the intent of buying one and this has been most helpful. I'm interested in these thing because they're so completely different. I really don't need another bike but......
 

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
Thanks for such good info here folks. I'm looking at a couple of Dino's next week with the intent of buying one and this has been most helpful. I'm interested in these thing because they're so completely different. I really don't need another bike but......
It was a BIG BUT in my life too! (And still is!)
 

Freddy

Active member
Got a nice red one yesdy.image000000_20220413_174729.jpg

Scuff make below headlight but found an unmarked one fairly close on ebay. :)

Anyone fitted cruise control? I'm gunna fit a used Audiovox I have.
 

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
Got a nice red one yesdy.View attachment 639

Scuff make below headlight but found an unmarked one fairly close on ebay. :)

Anyone fitted cruise control? I'm gunna fit a used Audiovox I have.
Well done! Check the forum. several people have installed 'different' types of cruise controls that work.
 

Mika

New member
Took my DN to a self-serve wash. It was packed and I was forced to begin washing almost immediately. BIG mistake! It all went well and the 35-minute ride back was as good as always. When I arrived, I saw that the shifter started blinking "-", but since there was no issue, I just left it there as it was.

The next day, wanted to go for a ride but things were different. When I pressed D, it didn't immediately go there, took a few seconds. I still gave it a try. It started moving as always but after a few seconds, I realized it didn't shift the gears, like it is stuck in the first gear. It revs up as usual but doesn't shift the gears. I started troubleshooting...

The error is 8 blinks, TP Sensor error. But also a few times it gave the DTC 26. Reading everything I could find here and in the service manual, I thought it was the swash plate control motor. I took it off the bike and plugged it into 12V, it turned, and it seemed normal. I also took it apart and the insides looked fine too. Just a bit of black powder. Put together and back on the bike. (My bike has 11k on the ODO).

Tried HFT Initialization twice. Did the whole procedure to the point, warmed up, waited 4+ minutes, and the whole jazz. It gets up to number 2 and starts blinking again without moving to 3, giving DTC 8.

I ordered a multimeter for troubleshooting the swash plate angle sensor and the TP sensor, but I will appreciate it if anyone can share their thoughts on this issue. Thanks in advance.
 

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
Took my DN to a self-serve wash. It was packed and I was forced to begin washing almost immediately. BIG mistake! It all went well and the 35-minute ride back was as good as always. When I arrived, I saw that the shifter started blinking "-", but since there was no issue, I just left it there as it was.

The next day, wanted to go for a ride but things were different. When I pressed D, it didn't immediately go there, took a few seconds. I still gave it a try. It started moving as always but after a few seconds, I realized it didn't shift the gears, like it is stuck in the first gear. It revs up as usual but doesn't shift the gears. I started troubleshooting...

The error is 8 blinks, TP Sensor error. But also a few times it gave the DTC 26. Reading everything I could find here and in the service manual, I thought it was the swash plate control motor. I took it off the bike and plugged it into 12V, it turned, and it seemed normal. I also took it apart and the insides looked fine too. Just a bit of black powder. Put together and back on the bike. (My bike has 11k on the ODO).

Tried HFT Initialization twice. Did the whole procedure to the point, warmed up, waited 4+ minutes, and the whole jazz. It gets up to number 2 and starts blinking again without moving to 3, giving DTC 8.

I ordered a multimeter for troubleshooting the swash plate angle sensor and the TP sensor, but I will appreciate it if anyone can share their thoughts on this issue. Thanks in advance.
I would try using a hair drier and go over the bike thoroughly to help dry her out. Believe you got water inside the bike. Remove what you can (body parts) and examine the insides of the bike. Look particularly at the connections especially the electronics/control. Give the bike time to 'dry-out!' Pressure washing is a NO-NO for bike! Keep us posted with your progress.
 

Mika

New member
SUCCESS!!!

So here is what I did.

When I initially took off the swash plate control motor, I tried to move the gear and it seemed stuck. I kept reading the service manual and found out that the reduction gear should move freely and the procedure was to remove the swash angle sensor and the swash angle control motor and move the gear and see if it turns freely. I did, and it was not moving. I kind of pushed at it with a flat screwdriver and suddenly it got unstuck and started moving freely.

I put the swash plate angle sensor back and the control motor back. After I fired the bike up and there was no more error blinking. I turned the bike off and followed the HFT initialization protocol. This time it worked as described. I was almost jumping from happiness but there was one more test to do. Yes, you guessed it right. I took the bike for a short spin and it worked as usual, I was able to ride normally with D, tried manual mode, and switched gears, it also worked, tried S mode - also worked. Now I still have no clue what was the cause of this issue but today I stand victorious!

Thanks for the replies and hope my story can help someone else!
 

Freddy

Active member
Who else finds the HFT fault chart a bit confusing for a start? My bike has also shown code 45 but the attached chart takes some clear thinking.

11 27.jpg

The 45-1 (47) puzzles me - what does the 1 and (47) tell us exactly?

It was an old code in memory. In doing the read routine with a paper clip in the correct wires of the red plug, a few times it would not show the (-) after holding + down while turning key on, just blank. Then when it did show again and I did the delete routine, it doesn't give the 'no faults' flashing sequence, just blank again.

All very curious. The bike operates perfectly.

Thoughts?
 
Last edited:

BobF

Member
I had this code recently. The bike cut out after just being started and would not re-start. I disconnected and removed the neutral pressure switch, cleaned it (it wasn't dirty), reconnected it and switched the ignition on then off again with the switch still off the engine. This must have re-set something, as everything was totally fine when I put the switch back in.
 

Freddy

Active member
Update: Apart from being slightly confused about the fault code numbering system, I'm now totally confused about the retrieval process, which is detailed in the first post in this topic - quite simple really. BUT when doing it for the HFT, the "-" does not show at all now, but it did a few times 2 days ago! Yes, I've done it a dozen times and definitely using the correct wires and read page 11-23 of the service manual several times and the "-" does not show, just blank. I see in small print on page 11-23 'Wait for 4 minutes from step 1 to step 4.' This makes no difference.

11-23.jpg

If there are no stored fault codes the "-" should flash as shown on page 11-25: off for 2.5 sec, on for 2sec. I get a blank.

11-25.jpg



The other confusing thing is the first dot point below item 9:
The DLC must be jumped while the shift indicator "-" lights . If not, the shift indicator will not start blinking.

I've certainly got the 'not start blinking' situation but the first lot of instructions say that that the DCL must be jumped with the key Off.

Anyone?
 
Last edited:


Top