Unknown undescribed problem

spamer80

spamer80

Member
Thanks for your replies.

removing the n/d solenoid valve and giving it a few taps
Click to expand...
LOCKUP SOLENOID VALVE
Click to expand...
Sure. Already a long time ago I`ve removed both n/d and lockup solenoid valve and checked it for continuity, air flow and 12v operation as the service manual says. Both not stuck and working perfectly.
check page no 59 and you may find
Click to expand...
I`ve seen this too. This was the first step I tried. But the problem is that the oil pressure indicator IS OFF: Turn the key, engine not running - the oil, N and ABS lights are on. Engine started - the oil indicator goes off normally as it should.
corrosion is a big possibility
Click to expand...
I thought about corrosion too, but the bike is only 8 years old, she is even not adult yet :)
Anyway, there is used wire harness on eBay for sale, I`m thinking of buying this too.
I wish I could live in a place like Australia, I don`t like cold myself too. But someday it should started to be boring, cause it`s a bit small for me :) Nowhere to ride. But a lof of nature I`d like to take photos.
 

spamer80

spamer80

Member
Today I`ve met the other guy on DN-01, US version. We`ve got both bikes in garage, to stand it face-to-face and replaced ECM, TCM, regulator/rectifier and right handlebar control.
No changes. Still the same error presents on mine and no errors on his.

I`m out of options. Wire harness? Or mech problem, but it could not be, because there was no such error before throttle body removal and cleaning.
 

Rus

Rus

Member
It remains to clean all electrical connecting pads, this is a disease of Japanese moto and auto industry
 

Gizmo

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
spamer80 said:
Today I`ve met the other guy on DN-01, US version. We`ve got both bikes in garage, to stand it face-to-face and replaced ECM, TCM, regulator/rectifier and right handlebar control.
No changes. Still the same error presents on mine and no errors on his.

I`m out of options. Wire harness? Or mech problem, but it could not be, because there was no such error before throttle body removal and cleaning.
Click to expand...

Hang in there! I admire your determination to find the root of the your problem! It's developed a life of it's own. (I would hate to think that somehow a second problem may have occurred with all your testing and therefore making your troubleshooting even MORE difficult)
 
Last edited:

spamer80

spamer80

Member
My friend came to garage on Saturday and we`ve did some tests which needs two pair of hands. First of all, we checked the solenoids again and then we connected the N/D solenoid valve directly to the battery. And voila, N light goes off, D on display and the bike is MOVING. But still shows the same blinking "-" under D. Surely, it`s not possible to drive like that but the mechanical part is working. So this is definetely something electrical that blocking bike`s "brains" from using N/D solenoid valve.

The interesting thing about N/D solenoid and it`s connector:
when you connect the direct 12v from battery to solenoid, it opens with loud "click" as it should. And the air flows through it as described in Manual. This is like you`ve pressed "D".
BUT.
When you turn the ignition ON there is ALREADY voltage on solenoid. About 12v too. And it is not engaging. Not clicking, no movement at all, before you press "D".

And the final thing: there is STILL the same voltage present even with IGNITION OFF!
And this is not some kind of capacitor, we`ve waited for 10 minutes and it`s still there.
The only way to remove it was to disconnect the battery. And voila, no voltage until you turn the key on again.

So.
1) The problem is definetely electrical. So, I`ve bought the full set (more or less) of wire harness for DN. With relays, fuses etc.
2) The constantly present voltage on solenoid could be the malfunction but diconnect the battery and you will never see it until the key is turned on again.

So if you someday have asked yourself "I`ve left my bike in garage for 2 weeks, WHY the battery seems completely dead?" this could be the answer. Your N/D, lockup solenoid valves and maybe more parts is still drains your battery!
 

Gizmo

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
Glad you ARE making progress ... keep us posted! (This is one for the books!)
 

Gizmo

Gizmo

Active member
Site Suporter
spamer80 said:
My friend came to garage on Saturday and we`ve did some tests which needs two pair of hands. First of all, we checked the solenoids again and then we connected the N/D solenoid valve directly to the battery. And voila, N light goes off, D on display and the bike is MOVING. But still shows the same blinking "-" under D. Surely, it`s not possible to drive like that but the mechanical part is working. So this is definetely something electrical that blocking bike`s "brains" from using N/D solenoid valve.

The interesting thing about N/D solenoid and it`s connector:
when you connect the direct 12v from battery to solenoid, it opens with loud "click" as it should. And the air flows through it as described in Manual. This is like you`ve pressed "D".
BUT.
When you turn the ignition ON there is ALREADY voltage on solenoid. About 12v too. And it is not engaging. Not clicking, no movement at all, before you press "D".

And the final thing: there is STILL the same voltage present even with IGNITION OFF!
And this is not some kind of capacitor, we`ve waited for 10 minutes and it`s still there.
The only way to remove it was to disconnect the battery. And voila, no voltage until you turn the key on again.

So.
1) The problem is definetely electrical. So, I`ve bought the full set (more or less) of wire harness for DN. With relays, fuses etc.
2) The constantly present voltage on solenoid could be the malfunction but diconnect the battery and you will never see it until the key is turned on again.

So if you someday have asked yourself "I`ve left my bike in garage for 2 weeks, WHY the battery seems completely dead?" this could be the answer. Your N/D, lockup solenoid valves and maybe more parts is still drains your battery!
Click to expand...

Just a thought: Is it possible that the "problem" is in the ignition switch? That it's staying "ON" or "HOT" even when it's suppose to be "OFF," based on what you have just said.
 


S

senior

New member
So, one step ahead! As assumed previously the solenoid valve is guilty. The fact that there is voltage at the solenoid when switching on might indicate the conduit running from battery to the power switch is in direct contact with the cable going to the solenoid, there is a high chance both are tight together somewhere. Might be that you had a short cut between these two cables before spark melting or vice versa, the spark caused the melting of the insolation and put in contact the cables.
 

spamer80

spamer80

Member
OK. But in this way how can you describe that after you`ve disconnected the battery, there is NO voltage before the key is turned ON again?
 

S

senior

New member
You shouldn’t see a perfect contact between these two cables as perfect like in a proper connection, the insulation is damaged and the conduits are very close to each other. There is a chance the cables get in contact or allow the electrical contact at the damaged insulation zone only when a current start running through the conduit and this happens by switching on the ignition button. The conduits stay connected until the battery is disconnected. Switching of the button has no effect on the weak connection between the two cables as there is still a current running through them due to solenoid valve current consumption which had been activated previously by switching on the button. Yes, it’s only a supposition but could be a reasonable explanation of the situation.
 



O

Overthehill

New member
Given the photos you have posted in other thread of your bike covered in ice and general road grime I would be VERY surprised if you problem is not a result of corrosion and short circuiting in the wiring loom.
Water is insidious and will gravitate itself to areas you would not think possible.
Also dismantling the bike as you did in the first place, there is more than a good chance for something to rear its ugly head which may have otherwise remained a non-problem.
Why would you dismantle a bike in that way if it was running well?
Just sayin!!!
I fear you may have created the problem in the first place.
Having said that(with no offence intended), I still think that based on the photos in "mid-winter", that your problem is shorting/corrosion in the wiring loom and dismantling the bike brought that to the fore.
Hope you get sorted soon and back on the road come Spring!
Good luck.
Cheers
Pete
 

S

senior

New member
I’ll keep my fingers crossed hopping you finnaly get to an end on the issue. It was too much effort and determination in solving the defect. We wait to hear good news, good luck !
 
Last edited:

spamer80

spamer80

Member
Thanks guys, I'm trying my best.

I've dismantled my bike because after all this mileage I started to hear cam chain ding noise. So I wanted to replace all accesible parts of engine with new ones to never look inside for another 100000 because we (our dealer, market etc) don't have the rare DN-01 specific parts ready and available. All parts you should order overseas and this could take a month to arrive.

The corrosion is really big possibility. Like I've disconnected some wire and when connected again it lost contact.
Anyway, I will first test my bike with pocket tester when it arrive to see if something will be wrong with connection or sensor readings. It is possible that I will find the problem wire without removing harness from bike.
 


spamer80

spamer80

Member
Could not wait for HDS, changed the main wire harness. And...no f*cking effect. Next one is sub harness... About 5 hours to do.
Day one:

Day two:

My friend arrived from job to leave his bike in garage and took some photos of me.
 



You must log in or register to reply here.

Top